SWCP – St. Ives to Zennor (Day 28)

I got talking to a guy camping next to me last night, Arthur, who is also doing the SWCP. Seen as though he was also walking to Zennor today, he offered me his company – which I gladly accepted. Arthur, from Yorkshire, is a tad experienced at this kind of thing, this being his 12th time walking the SWCP – and he has clocked up over 30,000 miles of walking in his time!

I soaked up a lot of tips from him as we walked. He taught me a lot about wild flowers too (which sounds extremely boring but was actually quite interesting!). An example is the picture above, showing a bunch of three cornered garlic. He broke one of the leaves off of the flower for me to munch on, and what do you know – it tasted exactly like garlic (very strong too – my mouth from then on reminded me of the morning after a thursday night out back home).

Because I had company today, I didn't get the chance to take many pictures of the scenery along the way. I did get some, but they don't really show how very desolate and isolated this stretch was. It was also very strenuous – the path was for the most part, not really much of a path at all, more just a minefield of rocks and boulders which we had to carefully make our way over.

When we eventually reached Zennor Head after a long time walking, we went our separate ways. I made my way inland to the small village of Zennor and to my campsite for the night (located in the garden of the old chapel).

After setting up my tent, I had a wander up to the nearby St. Senara's Church. Here there is the bench carving of the famous Mermaid of Zennor. The date of the carving is uncertain, but is thought to be five or six hundred years old. A legend tells how a beautiful young woman in a long dress used to sit at the back of the church listening to the singing of a chorister, Matthew Trewhella. One evening she succeeded in luring him down to the sea at Pendour Cove, now known as the Mermaid's Cove. It is said if you listen carefully on a warm summer's evening you can hear the pair of lovers singing together…

Before heading back to my tent, I also paid a visit to the Wayside Museum & Trewey Mill. The museum was fascinating, I ended up spending over a hour inside. It has an extensive collection of over 5000 artefacts reflecting the lives of Cornish people from 3000 B.C. to the 1950s. There was also a section detailing the history of Zennor itself and people who have lived here (including the famous writer D.H. Lawrence and the well known composer George Lloyd). Trewey Mill was equally fascinating. Recently restored, it is one of only two mills left in Cornwall capable of grinding flour in the traditional way and it was pretty cool seeing all the machinery working up close.

From here I took shelter in my tent from the now heavy rain outside. Just had a quick tea of mackerel fillets in squashed brown bed…

Its hard to believe I have been away from home for 4 weeks. Tired and exhausted, I have clocked up almost 250 miles so far. Still a long way to go too. Sleep time. Think I can hear Matthew and the mermaid singing…

Sent using BlackBerry® from Orange

One thought on “SWCP – St. Ives to Zennor (Day 28)”

  1. Enjoy every minute Chris….You should be a professional photographer, some of the photo's are great! like post cards. Are you excited for isles of scilly on Tuesday? Were the garlic flowers really tasty?


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